Kia Forte Forum banner

Clutch Job- Dropping sub frame mandatory?

14K views 42 replies 6 participants last post by  mobileterminaluser  
#1 ·
Hey Guys, nice to meet everyone. First post here.


Doing the clutch job in a week on my 2012 Kia Forte Koup EX and I am going over the notes. Came away with one question so far, is dropping the sub frame mandatory on these cars?
 
#2 ·
To access the clutch and tranny, yes. According to the F S M, it has you remove the transaxle assembly. And in order to remove the transaxle, it has you remove the sub frame.



Looks like fun! I'll be getting in to that stuff this weekend! I'm removing the engine along with the trans.


(I shelled out the $14 for the F S M and it's been my bible by my side for the past two days. I love this how-to knowledge. Great stuff!)
 
#8 ·
And for the record, I'm not impressed with the look of the shifter parts. I had to pull the console awhile back, to adjust the parking brake. Looks like most of the shifter parts are nylon. Doesn't look like a recipe for durability, especially if you bought one of these and wanted to autocross it, or use it as a trackday car.
 
#10 ·
I just bought a 2011 forte koup sx (6 spd. manual) about a month ago. And just two days ago the clutch pedal went to the floor and would not come back up!! And when I got it home, when the car is on it won't go into gears but when it is off it will glide into every gear!! I am female with no money really. I'm just wanting to know how I can tell if it's just the fluid, cables,hydraulic, clutch plate, or what?
I was told to turn the car on in 1st gear without pushing in the clutch and if it jumps then it's not the plate. Can anybody tell me if that's correct. Thanks. Trying to learn something,!!
 
#14 ·
I just bought a 2011 forte koup sx (6 spd. manual) about a month ago. And just two days ago the clutch pedal went to the floor and would not come back up!! And when I got it home, when the car is on it won't go into gears but when it is off it will glide into every gear!! I am female with no money really. I'm just wanting to know how I can tell if it's just the fluid, cables,hydraulic, clutch plate, or what?
I was told to turn the car on in 1st gear without pushing in the clutch and if it jumps then it's not the plate. Can anybody tell me if that's correct. Thanks. Trying to learn something,!!
Yes that one way, don't freak out when it jumps forward. Make sure when it's done that the vehicle is on a flat surface & NOT on an incline or decline.
 
#11 ·
If the clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor & doesn't come back/spring back up, then it's fluid leak. Also, if there's a puddle underneath the transmission then it's definitely the eccentric slave cylinder. The rubber accordion has a leak therefore unable to change gears safety.

If there's no fluid puddle underneath then it's something elsewhere transmission & yes, the subframe, the steering rack, CV axles have to be removed in order to get access to transmission & transmission has to be removed/dropped to get into the transmission bell housing to allow repairs.

I have a post on my 1st gen Koup transmission clutch pedal/eccentric slave cylinder transmission repair. No I didn't diy. My wife paid for it to get repaired due to I don't have automotive shop tools.
 
#18 ·
Okay, please don't think I am stupid. Although I worked at a auto part store when I was 19, (35 yrs ago) I know nothing about cars.( So if it is stupid "?" please forgive me ) BUT, is the eccentric slave cylinder, the thing that holds the trans oil? And if the "accordion" has a leak and unable to shift? Could that possibly mean that alone, could be the whole problem?? Maybe? wishful thinking. And maybe stupid ?;but could it not be lifted and gotten to from underneath? I'm sorry for bothering I think I might to Google it. But I appreciate the response.
But one more thing my low beam passenger side headlight won't work either. Changed bulb and checked fuses but still can't get it to work. Drive at night with high beams on so hopefully no ",copstop" for light being out.
THANKS... GNight....
 
#12 ·
#20 ·
The transmission fluid (Gear oil) in standard/manual is completely different & kept separated from clutch pedal fluid/Hydraulic brake fluid in these cars.

1st gen Kia Forte Kous & sedans 2.0L & 2.4L (2010 thru 2013) standard/manual Fortes use transmission gear fluid/oil is 75W85 as stated in vehicle owners manual.

OEM/Factory manual transmission gear fluid/oil
Image



If your local Kia/Hyundai dealership uses/sells manual transmission gear fluid/oil
Image
 
#23 · (Edited)
From my 1st gen Koup. Owners manual states
2.0L engines 2.0 qts/1.9 liters
2.4L engines 1.9 qts/1.8 liters

From day 1 of ownership. I have always done 2 quarts. I've never had any problems & I drain & fill at every 80,000 miles
Image


Transmission speed sensor & easier fill hole location for gear fluid/oil. The sensor bolt is 1 10mm & held on by a metal clip.
Don't over torque 10mm sensor bolt (hand tight only) & lose metal clip
Image
Image
Image
 
#27 ·
From my 1st gen Koup. Owners manual states
2.0L engines 2.0 qts/1.9 liters
2.4L engines 1.9 qts/1.8 liters

From day 1 of ownership. I have always done 2 quarts. I've never had any problems & I drain & fill at every 80,000 miles
View attachment 100945

Transmission speed sensor & easier fill hole location for gear fluid/oil. The sensor bolt is 1 10mm & held on by a metal clip.
Don't over torque 10mm sensor bolt (hand tight only) & lose metal clip
View attachment 100946 View attachment 100947 View attachment 100948
Thanks you. This is very helpful. I appreciate it!!
 
#25 ·
As for the the headlights not turning on, check the bulbs themselves. See if the metal element (spring) isn't dangling, broken or burned out.

Check the light bulb sockets metal contacts aren't bent, broken or pushed back into the bulb socket.

Switch the affected bulbs & see if they turn on in the other working headlights. On glass/incandescent bulbs make sure the contacts are intact & making contact with socket contacts.

If using l.e.ds, majority of them are polarity sensitive. Flip, rotate or 180° the bulb contacts.

Loose metal contacts, loose pins, corrosion can cause illumination problems.

Image
Image
 
#29 ·
Was just told the slave cylinder was leaking under car and it had air in lines. I'm thinking this is going to take some money. I haven't even had the car a month to and a half yet. And no warranty from dealership! Sold as is with any faults!
Could the reason for that be by the way it's drove?
 
#31 ·
As for the eccentric slave cylinder, if the clutch pedal is sloppy/weak, doesn't spring back up, no pressure felt when depressed/stepped on & theres leaking, it has to be replaced.

While the transmission is down/pulled out from vehicle, might as well have the age/conditions of pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing checked or replace if it shows needs replacing. See the condition of the flywheel too.

Check the CV axles & their splines. If splines look wornout, chipped, broken, filed down or filed smooth, replace. Majority of CV axles last several yrs when vehicle isn't driven like a F&F or Need For Speed (NFS).

Have the transmission fluid/gear changed out if it's neglected, unmaintained, not changed. Don't fall for the "Closed for life, Do not service, No service need" transmission wives tales. That's a scare tactic to have owners come in & either trade in or buy new cars. It also puts 100% blame on grown adults that should've known better & hold them accountable especially if vehicle/s are under warranty & owners want warranty repairs. When warranty expires, then owners can do whatever they want to their cars. Can't complain when fluids aren't changed, poor lack of proper maintenance or "I'll do it later, next week"

All I.C.E. vehicles need their fluids, oils changed due to wear tear, thermal breakdown, metal shavings, thickening, heat cycles, extreme heat & friction.

Also, don't fall for & believe those 1 time a yr engine oil changes unless you drive 1 time every yr. Change your vehicles fluids/oils.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Dealerships can't be held responsible & accountable for the slave cylinder failure unless they took down the transmission & serviced/repaired it.

That would cost them extra & those repairs/services are 2 to3x added onto final price.

The "As is" window sticker means exactly that. Seller doesn't know what pending, hidden, looming mechanical & or non mechanical problems the vehicle has, how previous owner treated the vehicle, previous maintenance/services,repairs & or doesn't care is why for the "As is" sale.
 
#33 ·
Yeah, I know "as is" I was just saying that was my luck. I just didn't realize that until I was reading it in the paper work. But, I did know it was just a trade in. I jumped on this car a little too fast anyhow. I just asked my ex to cosign for me a car. And in all honesty I thought if I did not get this one then I wouldn't get one at all. (My greed I guess) It's a nice little car. I appreciate it but I'm just not liking this car.
Do you know where I can get cheap parts o'rileys the only store here in town. just said it'll be $398. for both cylinders. And I'm sure it's going to be more than just those two parts. (Disability due to falling off of horse/brain damage) Anyways, thank you for you time.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Both cylinders?

It's only 1 eccentric slave cylinder needed.

Order from Kiapartsnow.com, Kiapartsonline.com, Kiapartworld.com or fromyour local Kia/Hyundai dealership as a last resort.

Yes, you can order thru Autozone, O'Reillys, Pepboys, Napa, Advance Auto parts, Carquest, Walmart in-store or online. The return policies are 30 to 90 days. Also, once opened/installed & or used, it can cost extra for refund/return + restocking fee. Just remember Chineseium made pos cause more problems than fixes. Also, don't cheap out unless you have money to have the transmission dropped or cheap out on parts that demand length expensive teardowns

Check & compare prices from the above & return/refund terms & conditions before ordering.

I order from Kiapartsnow.com & haven't had any problems when dealership prices are too high or won't honor prices. 99% of the times dealership don't honor or price match.
 
#38 ·
Both cylinders?

It's only 1 eccentric slave cylinder needed.

Order from Kiapartsnow.com, Kiapartsonline.com, Kiapartworld.com or fromyour local Kia/Hyundai dealership as a last resort.

Yes, you can order thru Autozone, O'Reillys, Pepboys, Napa, Advance Auto parts, Carquest, Walmart in-store or online. The return policies are 30 to 90 days. Also, once opened/installed & or used, it can cost extra for refund/return + restocking fee.

Check & compare prices from the above & return/refund terms & conditions before ordering.

I order from Kiapartsnow.com & haven't had any problems when dealership prices are too high or won't honor prices. 99% of the times dealership don't honor or price match.
Ya I know its only one slave cylinder but I was told if you have the transmission open you might as well replace the master cylinder too. I don't really know what I'm talking about I'm just trying to learn as I go.
I have the money for parts but now I have nobody to work on it.
Thank you for all your help. I appreciate it.
 
#39 ·
Master brake cylinder? No need to do that unless it's malfunctioning beyond repair. The internals are metal with some rubber O rings.

When the master brake cylinder starts to leak brake fluid, you'll see the brake booster paint bubbling/peeling away like in the pic. Just install brand new O rings.
Image
 
#43 · (Edited)
The eccentric slave cylinder is in the transmission bell housing.

The subframe hast to be removed to allow access into the transmission for the repairs to proceed & be done correctly.

Image

Image
Image
Image


When you buy oem it will be upgraded single clutch line, made from plastic. The original oem will have 2 solid metal lines.

The unused metal line on the 2 line was for bleeding/removing air in clutch pedal.